Richard Barton guides us through three parks and a stunning view of London (Sketches by Jame Moxham)
The walk starts at Denmark Hill Station outside the Phoenix and facing the recently commissioned sign along the bridge to remind you that you are in Camberwell. The arrival of the railways to Camberwell around 1860 transformed the area. The station served two lines, the London Brighton South Coast Railway and the London Chatham Dover Railway. This fine Victorian station was designed by Charles Henry Driver in 1864 in the Italianate style and was described by Pevsner as ‘a Tuscan Villa in the heart of Camberwell’. It is possible that the symmetrical design with two wings was a response to its accommodating two railway companies, but unfortunately much of the original interior was destroyed by fire in 1980.
Turn right to the north and in front of you is a beautiful metal sculpture of a pregnant woman by Fanis Rachoutis which marks the entrance to the Fetal Medicine Research Institute (1). It is worth entering the courtyard beyond to look at this award-winning recent building by A21 Architects, who have cleverly integrated the backs of the old houses on Windsor Walk into their stunning design.
Return to the start and continue up to turn left on to Champion Park. On the opposite side is the William Booth Memorial Training College. This imposing building with its tall central tower, which can be seen over much of southeast London, was designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott in 1929. Apparently, the original design had more decorative elements that were omitted to save money. In my opinion, the building is better for that as you can now clearly see the similarities of approach to his other famous buildings; Liverpool Cathedral, Battersea and Bankside (now the Tate Modern) power stations. In front of the building are two impressive statues of the founder of the Salvation Army, William Booth (2), and his wife Catherine by the sculptor George Wade.
Turn around and walk along to cross over Denmark Hill to Ruskin Park which is almost directly ahead. Take the second path left in the park and continue along and up some steps until you reach a curious structure on your right (3). This former entrance portico is all that remains of Dane House, the grounds of which formed the central core of the new park when it was created in 1906. Mendelssohn was staying in Dane House in 1842 when he composed ‘Camberwell Green’, now better known as ‘Spring Song’. This northern part of the park was laid out by Lt Col Sexby (also responsible for Myatt’s Fields and Kennington Park) and extended to the south in 1910. The park contains many of the features of an Edwardian Park, such as a pond and bandstand which are also found in his other creations.
After the portico take the next path on your right and follow it down and around the pond and turn left when you get to the bottom of the hill. Walk along past the tennis courts and playground and, at the end of the paddling pool, walk past a large mural by Liam Dowd and Sam Sure. It was commissioned by the Friends of Ruskin Park. Exit the park next to the mural and continue along Northway Road turning right on to Cambria Road at the end. Ahead of you is a railway bridge which has been covered with a wonderful variety of art works (4) which celebrate the Cambrian Period. A list of the artists is at the far end.
Turn around and retrace your steps back into the park taking the path up to your right. Continue up the hill past the adult gym on your right which was made from recycled knives acquired through knife amnesties. In about 100 metres on your left is a large fallen tree which has been carved by the local artist Morganico and now forms a popular climbing challenge for young children. When you reach the top stay in the park and turn right. As you proceed further you will get some wonderful long-distance views over central London to the north.
Exit the park at the end and turn right along Ferndene Road and then left onto Herne Hill Road (5). On the opposite side is the wonderful Carnegie Library building (unfortunately scaffolded at present). Andrew Carnegie was a Scot who emigrated to the USA, made a fortune, and then gave 90 per cent of it away. His philanthropy paid for the building of over 2,500 libraries around the world. This one was designed in 1906 by Wakefield and Sons.The interior is worth a look with some lovely details and the building now also houses many different activities in addition to the library.
Continue until you can cross over Denmark Hill to enter Red Post Hill on the other side. After 100 metres or so you will enter the Sunray Gardens Estate. This is surely one of the best examples of the ‘cottage estates’ built by the London County Council under the Homes Fit for Heroes scheme after WW1 and following the important 1919 Housing Act. The estate provided 240 two-storey houses and six blocks of flats laid out to the garden city principles established by the architects, Parker and Unwin at Welwyn and Letchworth. The houses here now sell for over £1million. At the end of the road on your left is Sunray Gardens. This is all that remains of the landscape that was laid out in the eighteenth century by Humphry Repton in the grounds of the former Casino House over which the current estate was built. Although now much altered, you can still see the pond which was formed from flooded brick pits.
Leave the park and cross over the road to look at the Arts and Crafts church building St Faith’s Centre (6). Then turn left and walk along Sunray Avenue, take the first turning to the right and then immediately left into Nairne Grove. Soon, on your left is the Bessemer Nature Garden, which is worth a look around if you are lucky enough to find it open. On the opposite side of the road is Bessemer Grange School. There you will pass a delightful wall painting of a hedgehog (7) which looks like the work of the street artist ATM who specialises in painting species in decline.
Just beyond, you will pass a colourful new school building before taking the narrow passageway at the end of the road. Turn left onto the footpath at the end and after about 100 metres enter through a gate into the open space called Green Dale and then following the path to your left.
Green Dale has the feel of a slightly wild rural backwater, unique in the area. There has been a long ongoing planning dispute with Dulwich Hamlets Football Club about its future, but its interesting past is described on a plaque which you will eventually pass near to the exit. Take the path uphill to the left through a wooded area. It is hard to imagine that over 100 years ago many of the first British films were made here, taking advantage of what was then a large clear south facing slope in order to reduce the need for artificial light on the sets.
Continue walking straight up the hill eventually crossing over Champion Hill at the top. Keep straight ahead and after 200 metres you will reach The Hamlets on your right. This award-winning private estate was designed in 1967 by Peter Moiret and has retained its design integrity as one of the best examples of 1960s housing. Just beyond, the last house on the left of Champion Hill was designed by the prominent Victorian architect John Belcher for himself in 1887. He also designed what is now the Greek Orthodox Cathedral in Camberwell. This house is next to the Fox and Hounds, from the garden of which you get a good view into Central London. Continuing down Champion Hill on your right is the Ruskin Park House Estate. One can just imagine Hercule Poirot emerging from these art deco inspired flats. Although designed in 1938 by Watkins Grey for a developer, they were not finished until 1954 by the LCC. From here walk down Denmark Hill and then right at the traffic lights, you will arrive back shortly at the station.
