Poppy Pearce launches this new regular page with a journey through Camberwell’s kitchens – where you can eat around the world, with nearly a hundred options in a 1.5 mile radius
I moved to Camberwell last September, returning to where my grandfather once lived. Since then, I’ve spent a gluttonous year exploring its vibrant food scene – journeying from Ethiopia to Italy to Lebanon. For me, food is connection, and writing about it is a way of sharing the stories behind each dish. Tuck in!
New Openings
This year, Camberwell has welcomed a wave of new food and drink destinations, each adding something distinctive to the neighbourhood. Lala Books is more than a bookshop. It’s a café and cultural hub where coffee and conversation flow freely. With shelves of thoughtful titles, outdoor seating and a lively calendar of events, it’s quickly becoming a local favourite. Hello JoJo brings what they call “elevated comfort food with South London spirit” to the old Forza Win site. In the mornings, it’s a bakery offering handmade pastries and breads. By afternoon, it shifts to a restaurant serving classic London dishes reimagined with bright, seasonal ingredients. Kerfield, the latest project from the team behind The Baring in Islington, has taken over the former Crooked Well site. Their attention to detail is evident throughout – from the restored historic drinking well to their now famous gariguette strawberry and chamomile custard doughnuts. Finally, while The Sun isn’t a new arrival, its recent refurbishment deserves mention. A refreshed dining room and re-landscaped beer garden have brought renewed charm to this much-loved local.
A Taste of Vietnam
Vietnamese cuisine has long held a special place in my heart. After travelling there, I was captivated by dishes like bánh cuốn, bún chả and bánh mì – dishes defined by balance, freshness and care. Fortunately, Camberwell serves its own slice of Vietnam. Van Hing blends Vietnamese and Chinese dishes in an authentic setting. Service is quick, prices are fair, and the food is consistently satisfying. The bun vermicelli noodle salads, in particular, are light, bright and full of texture. At Huong Vi Viet, owner Li cooks from the heart, drawing on recipes passed down from her mother. Favourites include the rich and spicy bun bo hue, and the tender, fragrant gà nướng của Mẹ (‘Mama’s chicken’). There’s also a well-priced lunch menu, with daily specials for £10. Viet Cafe, a family-run restaurant established in 2011, takes pride in its rustic atmosphere and traditional cooking. Their beef pho, served on Saturdays, is made with a broth that simmers for over 24 hours – an unmistakable depth of flavour that rewards patience. Together, these three venues make a strong case for Camberwell as a quiet but credible centre for Vietnamese food in south London.
Spotlight On: Nandine
It was a slow, golden Sunday – one of those rare afternoons with nothing pressing but the question of what to eat. I arrived at Nandine at 4.30pm. An eager arrival, but clearly not the only person craving an early bite. As I sipped fragrant mint tea, the room filled steadily, drawn by something deeper than appetite. Behind Nandine is a story as rich as its food. Founder Pary Baban fled her village of Qaladze in South Kurdistan, trekking across the mountains for nine days. Along the way, she collected recipes from the people she met. Pary lost her treasured recipe book but miraculously found it 30 years later, and that rediscovery inspired Nandine. I ordered the lula kebab: lamb and mutton skewers, crisp at the edges, tender at the centre, served with pillowy za’atar nan, grilled tomato, yoghurt, tirsha piyaz and lemon. For dessert, a plate of sweet, sticky baklava – rose, almond, cinnamon. Then tahini ice cream with crushed walnuts and lemon zest: earthy, creamy, comforting. Nandine’s story, like its food, is deeply rooted. Pary Baban’s journey across Kurdistan lives on here – in every recipe, every generous plate, every returning customer. We’ve only just scratched the surface of Camberwell’s table – so I’ll save you a seat for more discoveries in the next edition.
Camberwell on a plate
